Pep Palau (Gastronomic Forum Barcelona): “Cuisine doesn’t do archaeology: it reinvents tradition”

The cuisine that looks back does not necessarily live in the past. Stews, techniques, and recipes inherited over the centuries remain very present in kitchens around the world, but they also evolve and open the door to new ways of understanding gastronomy. Because, as Pep Palau, content director of Gastronomic Forum Barcelona, reminds us, “tradition that stagnates dies“.

With this idea as a common thread, this year’s edition of the fair, which will be held from November 2 to 4 at Fira de Barcelona’s Gran Via venue, will be dedicated to exploring how culinary heritage can inspire the cuisine of the future. Under the slogan Revisiting Tradition, the fair will bring together more than 450 exhibiting companies, 12% more than last year, in an area of 14,500 square meters. In this interview with The New Barcelona Post, Palau summarizes how this perspective is reflected in the program and addresses the main changes and challenges in the sector, from generational succession to the evolution of business models.

— In a city with a wide range of gastronomic fairs and events, what distinguishes Gastronomic Forum Barcelona?

— Gastronomic Forum Barcelona was a pioneer in organizing culinary congresses and maintains its own model that combines congress and fair. This formula allows for a high-level program of activities and a large exhibition space. Another of its distinctive features is the atmosphere created there. During the three days, gastronomy professionals meet to discover new proposals, exchange knowledge, establish contacts, and do business. This combination of content and professional opportunities is what gives the fair its own identity.

— In addition, Gastronomic Forum Barcelona has not stopped reinventing itself since its inception. What new features will we find in this year’s program?

— The fair evolves every year based on the trends we detect in the sector and the concerns of gastronomy professionals. This year, for example, we wanted to focus on gastronomic bars, a format increasingly present in restaurants, where the kitchen and dining room merge and diners can see up close how chefs work. At Fòrum Lab, we will recreate this experience for a whole morning, with three leading chefs in this trend: Albert Raurich (Dos Palillos), João Kather (Tetsu), and Martín Comamala (539, Plats Forts). Attendees will be able to see them cook behind the bar and closely follow how they prepare and serve the dishes.

We also continue to explore new possibilities within the different trades of gastronomy. After two editions dedicated to charcuterie, this year we focus on marine sausages, with two sessions in which various chefs will show how to work with this new technique. Another novelty is the premiere of the Health Forum, a new line of activities that will explore the relationship between gastronomy and well-being.

— Tradition is the main thematic axis of this edition. Why have you decided to place it at the center of the program?

— In recent years, we have observed a growing interest in recovering tradition as a source of inspiration and a driving force for creativity in the kitchen, both in Catalonia and the rest of Spain, as well as internationally. A trend that returns to the essence of each territory’s own cuisine, but without limiting itself to reproducing what has always been done. It is not about returning to the past, but about reinterpreting this legacy from a current perspective, incorporating values such as sustainability and a commitment to local products. This year, we want to show how chefs from different regions work with this idea: from Catalonia, Euskadi, Andalusia, Madrid or Italy, and how each territory finds its way of dialoguing with this tradition.

“Tradition that stagnates dies; tradition that stops evolving disappears”

 

— Tradition, therefore, is not incompatible with innovation.

— On the contrary: tradition that stagnates dies; tradition that stops evolving disappears. Cuisine does not do archaeology: it reinvents tradition. From Gastronomic Forum Barcelona we want to show precisely this trend: how chefs start from the gastronomic legacy to reinterpret it, incorporate new techniques and turn it into a source of creativity.

There are very different ways of understanding this relationship. Some chefs seek to be faithful to what each one understands by tradition, while others take it as a starting point and incorporate contemporary techniques and resources typical of haute cuisine.

— One of the great novelties this year is the move from Montjuïc to the Gran Via venue. What does this change represent for the fair?

— The relocation responds to two factors: the renovation works at the Montjuïc venue and the need to meet the demand from companies, which want more space to exhibit their products. For this reason, we optimistically welcomed the possibility of moving to Gran Via, facilities that allow us to grow and reach 450 exhibiting companies this year. 

Activities are one of the great drivers of the fair, but the exhibition space is also essential for companies to present their products and innovations, and to get in touch with potential clients. Therefore, the congress and fair activities complement each other: one would not make the same sense without the other.

In the exhibition space, the fair stands out both for the presence of small producers and the commitment to local products, as well as for the innovations presented by companies. This year, for example, several fifth-range novelties will be presented, a category that includes cooked foods and prepared elaborations ready to consume or to finish preparing before serving. The demand for these products has been on the rise in recent years and companies are responding with new proposals. 

— The program combines big names in gastronomy with emerging professionals. How do you find the balance between these two generations?

— This combination is part of our DNA. It is as important to have highly prestigious chefs who have projected our gastronomy to the world as it is to listen to new generations. For this reason, the program features chefs such as Nacho Manzano or Jordi Cruz, at the helm of restaurants with three Michelin stars, or front-of-house professionals such as Juan Carlos Ibáñez (Lasarte) or Mariana Suárez (El Celler de Can Roca). 

But, at the same time, we want to give visibility to professionals from restaurants that do not yet have this recognition. Our role is to offer them a space where they can explain their projects, share their concerns, and talk about the challenges and difficulties they face. This commitment to giving visibility to new talents is reflected in initiatives such as the Chef of the Year award, which is presented during Gastronomic Forum, aimed at professionals who have not yet obtained a Michelin star or significant recognition from the main guides. 

— How can Gastronomic Forum Barcelona contribute to generational change in gastronomy?

— By giving a voice to the youngest professionals. At the symposium Generation Z Takes the Floor, they will talk about new business models, social networks, the digital world, and business management, but also about issues such as working conditions, team care, and work-life balance.

— Beyond generational change, what other challenges does the restaurant sector currently face?

— The sector is experiencing changes at breakneck speed. If we compare what it means to go to a restaurant today with what it meant twenty, fifteen, ten, or even five years ago, we will see how much the entire process has transformed: from booking to the experience itself at the restaurant. It is necessary to adapt to the digital revolution and artificial intelligence, but also to rethink how to train teams, treat people, and organize working time, without neglecting the personal life of the team. 

Another challenge is the growing weight of industry and fifth-range products, which large distribution is also increasingly betting on. The restaurant sector must find a way to compete with this offer.

“Sustainability must be part of the project from the moment it is born, both in terms of respect for the environment and the treatment received by the teams and the people who work there”

— Given these challenges and the accelerated changes the sector is experiencing, how do you foresee gastronomy evolving and what impact will it have on Gastronomic Forum Barcelona?

— It will be necessary to adapt to the contemporary diner, be competitive, and fine-tune management. Today, the sector cannot afford to open businesses without a clear business plan. At the same time, restaurants will have to incorporate the values demanded by society. Sustainability must be part of the project from the moment it is born, both in terms of respect for the environment and the treatment received by the teams and the people who work there.

A restaurant must be sustainable in all these areas. It is no longer an issue that can be left for later: it must be part of its roadmap. If not, it runs the risk of being left out, because it will not respond to the demands of current society.